Route: Gurgaon - Panchkula - Solan - Kandaghat - Chail - Kufri - Narkanda - Hatu - Narkanda - Shimla - Chandigarh
Distance - 430 kms (delhi - narkanda)

31st December'06.
This was one of the most interesting trips that I have ever made. Generally, before venturing out I do little bit of planning, but for this one, forget the planning, even the place wasn’t decided. Few days back my cousin had a bike accident and had enough staying at one place. Chatting over the phone we instantly decided to head to the hills, but the destination was not decided.Within next half hour I was on a bus to Ambala, and my cousin was on his way in his car from Hissar. It was already 1 by the time I boarded the bus. By the time I reached Ambala it was 5:30pm, and my cousin was there with two of his friends. Without wasting any time further we decided to proceed further and take a halt at Ginani Da Dhaba,Dharampur. (Between all this I forgot to mention the time of the year. It was 31st December). We were little skeptical about the accommodation but then thought ‘what the h#ll’. Once in Dharampur, we had an option of moving towards Kasuali or Shimla, enquired about accommodation, but got to know that since its new year’s eve, all hotels/guesthouses are occupied till Shimla. We didn’t take it too seriously then, but with every kilometer towards Shimla, when we saw more and more people stranded, we understood the gravity of problem. We decided not to proceed towards Shimla but look for a decent place in Solan, since its not a tourist place anyways, finding a hotel won’t be a problem. But to our surprise, every good, bad or ugly place was occupied. Our search took us to Solan’s main market, even there couple of people like us were looking for a place and actually trying to outrun each other. After talking to some locals, a guy agreed to give us shelter and arranged to put four ‘Charpais’ in the balcony, at a charge of Rs.100 in total, that’s Rs.25/head. Yes, it was the cheapest accommodation I have ever had in my life. But let’s not get into details, all I can say thanks to my thick jacked, hooded sweat shirt and woolen gloves, I survived through the night. By 4:30 am I had enough of sleep at that place, got everybody up and we slowly started to make our way out of the town. From Kandaghat, we took a turn towards Chail; it was still dark by the time we reached there. We wanted to take a tea-break but the town was still sleeping, so we carried on to Kufri. That was the first time on this trip that we saw snow. We took a short tea-break before heading to out final destination. We reached Narkanda around 9 am, for a long time it has been an intriguing spot on NH 22, but we were finally there. After having breakfast, we decided to take a stroll towards the ski slopes of Narkanda. We started walking through a narrow lane towards hotel ‘old thorn’. Although there were no signs of snow in the town, but after crossing the little hump, we were surprised to see beautiful landscape. The ski area was of size of a football field covered with tall deodars on all sides partially covered in snow, with 3-4 kids practicing their skiing. It was a beautiful site; we sat there for a while without talking inhaling the environment and silence.
But there was lot more to be explored around, especially Hatu peak and all I knew was that you ascend almost 1000 mtrs in just 8 kms. We were excited about the elevation as none of us had ever been at such a great height (3400mts). Eagerly we enquired about the way ahead and we were back on the road. We left NH 22 and took a state road towards Thanedar. Around 2kms down the road, we saw a very peculiar narrow road going up in the woods, and next to it was a Hatu signboard. We were overwhelmed by the whole sight and we got out of the car to absorb the environs. As we started ascending, we saw quite a few snow patches on and off the road. The vegetation was thick, with deodars appearing out of nowhere and almost touching the sky. After 2kms of driving, we encountered a big snow patch on narrow hill road; without giving it a second thought we parked the car aside and opted for walking. Once around the bend, I just could not explain the sight, all I saw was virgin snow all around, not spoiled in any which way. We got out of the car just to examine the snow stretch, but our examination never came to an end. Slipping and snowball fighting, we walked all the way to Hatu Mata Mandir, around 4 kms. There was a sense of achievement when we actually reached the top, but to our bad luck, the temple doors were locked. We prayed from outside and sat there for a while and enjoyed the views all around. After spending half an hour, we started walking back to the car.
By the time we reached Narkanda it was 2 and we were quite hungry. We hogged on to some alloo parantas before heading back. We couldn’t have stayed there even if wanted to, reason was simple, all hotels were occupied. We started around 3’o clock with a heavy heart, really wanted to stay overnight, but to our luck. So far, it was unusually bright clear sunny day, which soon transformed into a dark, cold rainy day even before we were half way to Shimla. Soon the temperature dipped considerably, phew. At this point everybody was still contained by the beauty of Hatu.
Once, we reached Shimla, tried getting accommodation once again, but as the luck had it, we were soon on our way to Chandigarh. After couple of hours there we were at Chandigarh ISBT. I was heading home to Gurgaon and my brother along with his friends was heading to Patiala for overnight stay. I can still remember that walk to Hatu as the best walk of my life. Never before I had experienced so much in less then 24
hours:-).


Route: Gurgaon - Pipli - Yamunanagar - Poanta Sahib - Shillai - Tiuni - Hatkoti - Rohru - Chirgaon - Shiladesh (well amost) - Rohru - Sungri - Khadrala - Baggi - Jubbal - Kotkhai - Theog - Shimla - Gurgaon
Distance: 1100kms (approx.); Days: 4
21st Dec'07 to 24th Dec'07
The plan was simple, after a long sabbatical, me and my riding partner Risihi just wanted to ride out. Had a long discussion on the destination but could resist the idea of snowfall in the month of December. So, the date was set – 21st December, the destination was finalized – Pabbar valley, route was planned: Delhi – Pipli – Yamunanagar – Poanta Sahib – Shillai – Tiuni – Rohru – Chargaon – Shiladesh – Rohru – Sungri – Baggi – Narkanda – Shimla – Delhi. Roped in couple of friends (Arunav, Manoj, Aman, Arvind & Mr. Thakur) and we started preparing for the adverse situation that you might face in hills during peak winter.
21st December, 2007
As per the plan, five of us headed towards Kurukshetra on four bikes around 7:30 am, where one more friend was supposed to join us. We took a breakfast halt at Murthal at 9:30 am and were back on the road in half an hour. Reached Pipli around 12, where Aman was waiting for us. As we were getting ready to move, I had a flat tyre along with some broken spokes. Got it fixed and now we were way behind our schedule. Rishi’s bike was traveling with a pillion and lots of luggage. It started stalling on the ascents once we reached Kalesar. So we divided the luggage and it was smooth again. By the time when we reached Poanta Sahib, it was 4:30pm. After skipping lunch to make up for the lost time, we were quite hungry. We hogged on tikki burgers and chai at a mithai shop and enquired about the route further. We couldn’t carry on beyond Shillai as the road was really dusty with lot of truck traffic (this is a mining area). Reached the silent own of Shillai around 8:30 pm and took shelter in Govt. PWD guesthouse around 9.30 p.m after dinner. Not such a great day as it was already dark by the time we reached mountains. Looking forward to the day ahead.
22nd December, 2007
Shillai is a small town with barren mountains, with one of the most amazing sunrises I have ever witnessed. Woke up early, it was freezing cold but couldn’t resist the idea of a sunrise, got the camera, stepped out for a surprisingly beautiful sunrise. Soon, others also joined me to see the first ray. It was a beautiful sunny winter morning, could see little bit of snow on distant mountains. After a quick tea session, everybody was ready for exciting day ahead. It was descend from Shillai, the ride was just amazing, with occasional pine forest. Soon we reached the beautiful confluence of Tons & Pabbar river. The sight was something similar to a cold desert river, with barren rocky Mountains in the background, crystal clear water. Around 20 kms short of Tiuni, Rishi’s bike ran out of petrol. None of us bothered to refuel on the first day as most of us were either relying on their bikes or Rishi huge petrol tank. Irony, we all pooled in some petrol enough for the nest 20 kms. We reached Tiuni, with a quick fill up and little brunch, we rode on some of the most scenic roads to Hatkoti. Our next stop was at Rohru, the headquarters of Pabbar valley. Slowly, we negotiated through heavily crowded streets; and entered in to an open valley which was quite beautiful and unique, with Chansal peak right in front of us but quite far. After crossing the town, we proceeded at a low speed consuming the beauty of the valley and enjoying the company of Pabbar River. With population dropping with every kilometer, we reached the last town of Chargaon on the route. After crossing the town we stopped by the river for a short break. It was the most relaxing break of the ride with crystal clear water flowing and beautiful mountains all around with thick vegetation. Ahead of us was snow-clad mighty Chansal peak. We were back on the road after 30 minutes and started riding towards Shiladesh. There was no road once the ascent started. Initially it was fun to tackle the ascent but little further, we encountered snow, lots of it, which made traction little difficult, bikes started slipping. Somehow we kept on riding but and 3 kms before Shiladesh, we decided to turn back; as the sun was going down fats and most of were finding it really difficult to negotiate the slippery slopes. We failed to negotiate the climb, but promised ourselves to be back. As the sun was going down fast, we decided that I will climb down first and scout for a safe place to camp; meanwhile others will negotiate the slope slowly and safely. Found an ideal spot along the river bank where we stopped earlier. I parked my bike and waited for others to come. Once everybody was there, we divide ourselves in two teams, to pitch tents and arrange for food and water. Arunav and Aman went to Chargaon to get some food and drinking water and rest of us started pitching tents and collecting fire wood. Within half an hour tents were pitched and fire was burning. Arunav and Aman came back with food, but no drinking water, as the local shopkeepers didn’t even stock bottled water as it was a remote place. We could have used river water, but our water purifying pills had already expired. I and Rishi decided to go to the nearby village for water. And to our luck it was too late for the village to be awake at 8:00 pm ;-). As we started back, stray dogs started chasing us, and as we stopped, we noticed a small tea stall. After requesting him for sometime, he agreed to give us a big container of drinking water. we never anticipated the welcome that we got at campsite when they water in our hands JJ. That night, all of us sat around the fire, eating, laughing, cracking jokes, pulling legs; as for most of us it was the first night under the stars.
23rd December, 2007
After a good night sleep, we woke to an icy morning, cold wind was picking up, but thankfully the fire was still lit. It was time to get ready for the day ahead, we were thinking of taking a dip in river (it was third day without shower), but locals strongly suggested against as the water was extremely cold, cold enough to freeze you in seconds. Before we can do anything else, it was time for nature’s call, but it was no less than a torture without toilet paper. I sat their chatting with a local just to discover that it was a leopard country and lots of animal carcasses were scattered around behind the campsite. It was quite informative after we have camped there for a night. It was time to leave; we packed our stuff, returned the water container and returned back to Rohru. Refueled and asked for directions to Sungri. We could have taken a safer route to Shimla via Theog but no. It was a beautiful road to Sungri with very less traffic, from 1400 mt., we climbed up to around 2200 mt in just 50 mintues. Enroute we saw some small patches of snow which really got us excited. Took a halt at Sungri, had breakfast and tea and enquired about the road ahead. From Sungri, you can either take left turn for Narkanda or right turn to Rampur. We decided to go by Narkanda as locals suggested that jeeps have been moving on this route, so bikes wouldn’t be problem. That’s all we needed, packed up and got on to the Sungri-Narkanda road. It was 12:30 pm and Baggi was just 40 kms away. So we planned to stay little ahead of Narkanda that day.
As we started to ride, we got a first patch of snow on the road – excited 99%, got to see another one round the corner - excited 95%, got another one and another one and another one. By the time we reached Khadrala (18 kms away), our excitement level was quite low. At Khadrala most of the bikes were standing in the snow without any support. Locals suggested us to turn back and not proceed further as the road was blocked with snow. But we decided to move ahead as we had already managed 18kms of snow patches, ‘we will manage’ rest 22 kms also. To put in other words we didn’t had energy/patience to go through that icy road again. But few kilometers down the road, all of us knew it was a bad idea to proceed further. Snow was replaced by ice and icy mud slush. We were finding it difficult to stand on ice, but we had to take our bikes across these patches. We took turns to help each other to cross these patches. Three of us would hold the bike and help rider to cross it. Everybody had their own share of falls. Midway, Arvind had a flat tire; as it was getting late, we decided to divide the group and send three riders (Rishi, Arunav, Aman & Mr. Thakur) to check the rest of the way and get closest accommodation as it was next to impossible to pitch tents in snow. Had a tough time fixing the tire as rubber got stiff, so did our hands, it took us an hour just fix it up. It was about to get dark and the worst was yet to come; guys ahead informed us about another ice patch ahead and a mud-snow slush. Finally we crossed all the patches and it was dark. People at Baggi were surprised to see us arriving from this side of the road as it was supposed to be close due to excessive snow. By the time we reached Baggi, our shoes were wet, clothes were dirty, hands were freezing, and all we wanted was bed. We unloaded the bikes and took shelter in PWD rest house. It was a long hard day. The rooms were warm and nice with a fireplace which we later used to dry our wet shoes and clothes. After little chitchat, all of us went off to sleep as nobody had any energy left. Won’t be able to forget about that day, mislead by a local, we covered 40 kms in about 7 hours.
24th December, 2007
Hoping to reach home, we woke early and packed our stuff on time. After enquiring about the road ahead, was glad to know that little ahead, a road bifurcates towards Theog which is all clear of snow. We couldn’t have been happier. We checked our bikes and started our journey with a cup of tea. Decided to stop for breakfast nearby Theog. It was fourth day without any shower as there was hot water or electricity available anywhere we went. This place is known as Baggi coz this area is surrounded by apple orchards, and we enjoyed the ride through beautiful country side surrounded by apple orchards. We took a short break at Chaila and proceeded towards Theog. It had been quite sometime since we had nice food, so decided to eat at the famous ‘Giani da dhaba’ at Dharampur. Crossed maddening Shimla and pushed ourselves to Dharampur, reached their around 2 pm, hungry and dirty as a pig, we hogged on as we haven’t eaten in days. Earlier we decided to divide the journey in two days, but Delhi was only 300 kms, we decided to carry on. Reached home at around 1am, covered around 450 kms in a day. Woke up next morning and it all seemed like a dream, a dream which got over too quickly.
But the journey was not complete yet, until we tread beyond Shiladesh someday.

Route: Gurgaon - Pipli - Yamunanagar - Poanta Sahib - Herbertpur - Vikasnagar - Kalsi - Sahiya - Chakrata - Deoban - Chakrata - Gurgaon
Distance: 720 kms; Days: 2
24th Sep'06

Chakrata holds a very special place in my heart. It is a perfect combination of serenity and adventure. I still remember the first time when I visited Chakrata, amidst the cloudy mist it was nothing less then a fairy tale. Even today, it is amongst my favorite places and I can actually think about kicking off my shows for good in its peaceful environs.

My first bike trip to Chakrata was back in 2006. At that time I was testing myself to see if I got what it takes to be a rider and the outcome was little disappointing to my wife. Anyways, coming back to the story. In 2005, when I came to Chakrata, I couldn't make it to Deoban due to heavy rain, but I promised myself to return and I did. 
 We left Gurgaon around 5:30 am and managed to get out of Delhi in good time. We were cruising down the highway, when suddenly the engine jammed. The thought of not going to Chakrata was quite disappointing. But as it turned out, engine jammed due to extreme heat. After a while it cranked back to life and we took it little slow this time. We crossed Poanta Sahib at around 11 am and reached Kalsi gate at 12. In 2006, only one way traffic was allowed to move at a time, but I guess today you can move freely. We managed to reach the gate on time and were given green signal to move ahead. The first 10 kms from Kalsi are very dramatic. Every year, there are massive landslides in this area and one can clearly see the brunt of these landslides.


Rest of the journey was peaceful and exciting, with curvy smooth mountain road, every corner turned into a picture perfect frame. We reached the cantonment by 3pm and it was time to check in to our favorite Himalayan Paradise, about 6 kms ahead of Chakrata towards Tiger Falls. We checked in, ordered some food and parked ourselves on the terrace, immersing ourselves in the beauty surrounding mountains.



 After lunch and little rest, we started inquiring about Deoban. The road was clear with few bad patches, doable but we were suggested to go in the morning. But morning was too far. We decided to explore the surrounding area and go to Deoban next day. We chugged towards the town, took a turn towards Deoban instead. Crossed the barrier, chugged further. Although, we were not planning to go to Deoban that day, but there was something that pulled us towards it.

 Every turn presented itself with a scenery to die for, we started to chase the bends, Promising ourselves 'just one more bend and then we will turn back'. But that last bend never came and we finally reached Deoban. It was cold and we were not equipped to handle cold, but no regrets. On our way we saw two white and one black horse grazing in a meadow and that was something out of the world. With mist descending on them, three horses grazing freely in the meadow, this was a scene straight out of fairy land.
 It was getting late and dark and we decided to turn back and leave exploring for another day. It got dark really fast and climbed down the mountain in dark. What an experience it was, cold, freezing, exciting, haunting, all mixed up. With a great sense of achievement and satisfaction, we reached our hotel. Tomorrow was an another day, a day to explore Deoban.








On our way to Deoban, we saw another road going towards Mundali, which appeared to be much higher then Deoban. Due to paucity of time, we had to choose between Deoban and Mundali.  And we chose Deoban and kept Mundali for an another day.